The Christopher Parkening Guitar Method, Volume 1, revised 1998, is a comprehensive approach to teaching classical guitar. Written by an accomplished premier classical guitarist, it is not just a collection of exercises and guitar pieces, but includes historical background, basic technique, lots of textual information, photos and a useful appendix of terms. While a few of the photos in the original edition which should have had better lighting are included, this is easily overlooked since many have been added which are of far superior quality.The nice thing is that Mr. Parkening seems not only to be teaching proper technique but also what to listen for and critique yourself so you can continue to improve. As he mentions in the Practicing section, “Always keep in mind it is better to play one piece well than many pieces poorly.”
There are pages explaining music notation terms as well as a large fretboard diagram toward the back showing each note name on each fret (all the way up to the 12th fret) and it’s corresponding position on the staff. There are a number of chromatic scale studies, arpeggio studies, finger technique exercises although I wish there had been more of these included (this is actually my ONLY quibble with Mr. Parkening’s book and one he fortunately rectified in vol. 2).
I recommend this text for first time students of classical guitar who will not just learn the rudiments, but beautiful guitar pieces as well. Having said this, there is no substitute for a teacher… don’t go it alone!
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Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Learn Acoustic Guitar - Movable Chord Shapes Explained
Movable chords are something that anyone that wants to learn acoustic guitar should become familiar with.
These chords use the same basic shape to make the same chord for any note simply by moving up and down the neck. These chords are sometimes called closed chords (in order to be so easily movable, these chords have no open strings) or barre chords.
E Series Barre Chords
The E series of bar chords all have their root note on the low E string and are based off the E or Em chord formation. Sometimes these are referred to as F bar chords, because the first natural chord with a barre used is the F chords.
Here some examples of E series chords:
E: 0-2-2-1-0-0
F: 1-3-3-2-1-1
G: 3-5-5-4-3-3
Em: 0-2-2-0-0-0
Fm: 1-3-3-1-1-1
Gm: 3-5-5-3-3-3
The pattern of the shape holds true for any position on the fret board, if this shape is used it will form the major or minor version chord of whatever note is on the low E string.
The chord is formed by "barring" all six strings with the index finger. At first, this can be difficult, but with time and practice it will become easier. The remaining notes of the chord are fretted using the remaining fingers. Since the one difference between the major and minor versions is the middle finger being lowered or raised, it makes changing between chords as simple as moving up and down the fretboard and raising and lowering the middle finger. Take some open chord progressions and try playing them with E bar chords.
A Series Barre Chords
The A series of barre chords (sometimes referred to as B series chords) is similar to the E series, except the bar chords are based off of the A or Am chords.
The root note of the chord is the note being played on the fifth string and the low E string is usually not played. This is not a hard and fast rule because extending the bar adds a fifth note, which can be added to the major or minor chord, but it is not actually required.
Below are some examples of A series chords.
A: X-0-2-2-2-0 or X-0-2-2-2-X
B: X-2-4-4-4-2 or X-2-4-4-4-X
C: X-3-5-5-5-3 or X-3-5-5-5-X
Am: X-0-2-2-1-0
Bm: X-2-4-4-3-2
Cm: X-3-5-5-4-3
One thing that is apparent is there are two versions of the major chord commonly used. Many guitarists will simply use the ring finger to bar the higher strings and not play the high e string rather than trying to hold the chord in other ways. This is because that way of holding the chord is easier to move in and out of and higher up the neck, it can be extremely difficult to hold the chord in other manners, as the frets get closer together.
The minor version of the chord, on the other hand, is quite easy to move up and down the neck in the basic form.
The movable chords are an important part of the repertoire of someone that wishes to learn acoustic guitar. Some guitarists will use them almost exclusively because they prefer the sound or ease of usage of them.
Beyond that, some chords have no open chord variants and can only be played with movable chords. If a progression has an unusual chord like Ebm, this is the only way to even be able to play the chord in standard tuning.
By : Dave Long and Matt Abdallah
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These chords use the same basic shape to make the same chord for any note simply by moving up and down the neck. These chords are sometimes called closed chords (in order to be so easily movable, these chords have no open strings) or barre chords.
E Series Barre Chords
The E series of bar chords all have their root note on the low E string and are based off the E or Em chord formation. Sometimes these are referred to as F bar chords, because the first natural chord with a barre used is the F chords.
Here some examples of E series chords:
E: 0-2-2-1-0-0
F: 1-3-3-2-1-1
G: 3-5-5-4-3-3
Em: 0-2-2-0-0-0
Fm: 1-3-3-1-1-1
Gm: 3-5-5-3-3-3
The pattern of the shape holds true for any position on the fret board, if this shape is used it will form the major or minor version chord of whatever note is on the low E string.
The chord is formed by "barring" all six strings with the index finger. At first, this can be difficult, but with time and practice it will become easier. The remaining notes of the chord are fretted using the remaining fingers. Since the one difference between the major and minor versions is the middle finger being lowered or raised, it makes changing between chords as simple as moving up and down the fretboard and raising and lowering the middle finger. Take some open chord progressions and try playing them with E bar chords.
A Series Barre Chords
The A series of barre chords (sometimes referred to as B series chords) is similar to the E series, except the bar chords are based off of the A or Am chords.
The root note of the chord is the note being played on the fifth string and the low E string is usually not played. This is not a hard and fast rule because extending the bar adds a fifth note, which can be added to the major or minor chord, but it is not actually required.
Below are some examples of A series chords.
A: X-0-2-2-2-0 or X-0-2-2-2-X
B: X-2-4-4-4-2 or X-2-4-4-4-X
C: X-3-5-5-5-3 or X-3-5-5-5-X
Am: X-0-2-2-1-0
Bm: X-2-4-4-3-2
Cm: X-3-5-5-4-3
One thing that is apparent is there are two versions of the major chord commonly used. Many guitarists will simply use the ring finger to bar the higher strings and not play the high e string rather than trying to hold the chord in other ways. This is because that way of holding the chord is easier to move in and out of and higher up the neck, it can be extremely difficult to hold the chord in other manners, as the frets get closer together.
The minor version of the chord, on the other hand, is quite easy to move up and down the neck in the basic form.
The movable chords are an important part of the repertoire of someone that wishes to learn acoustic guitar. Some guitarists will use them almost exclusively because they prefer the sound or ease of usage of them.
Beyond that, some chords have no open chord variants and can only be played with movable chords. If a progression has an unusual chord like Ebm, this is the only way to even be able to play the chord in standard tuning.
By : Dave Long and Matt Abdallah
Read More..
How to Choose a Singing Course on the Internet
There's more to being a good singer than just owning a special voice and talent. You have to work on posture, breath control, control muscle tension, stand with your feet on the ground correctly, and projecting your voice. You have to look at singing with emotion and communicating with the audience, and enjoy the song you are performing.
Instead of spending money on expensive private voice lessons, now you can buy a complete singing course on the Internet and download it onto your computer. There's a variety of courses available, and most of them are by experienced and popular voice teachers that include a lot of testimonials on their sales pages. What course should you choose then?
First of all, you should decide what your goals are as a singer. Are you a beginning singer with no real knowledge of vocal techniques, breath and tone control, correct intonation, or voice projection? Or are you an experienced singer with some knowledge but want to fine tune your skills up a notch or two? In either case, you don't want to invest a lot of money in voice lessons as they are a costly investment.
Some courses offer bonuses to add an incentive to buy the course. But the best thing you can do is review the sales page carefully yourself and read the testimonials. Most singing lesson software and courses guarantee that with the proper technique, you can learn to extend your vocal range by at least one octave.
Your course may include recording software which will help you listen to yourself. But make sure that you get instructions on how to read music, learn the correct breath technique, vocal range increase, development of vocal resonance and strength. The combination of all these factors will improve your ability to sing. There is one software out there with out a singing course, that will show how your voice looks on a computer screen with visuals that show your pitch, intensity of sound, and intonation.
Does the online singing course have a no risk guarantee so you can get a refund if you change your mind? If so, then you will have time to try the course and see if you can get some results. Both children and adults alike of all levels of singing skills have a lot of fun learning and listening to improvements.
Look for a singing course that starts from the beginning and goes to the advanced level. You will find the most of the software is easy to use, but look for a support or email contact in case you have questions about the course. Finally, make the time to set small goals so you have time for your online voice practice, because no singing course can help you if you don't make the time to use it.
By : Riley Wenne
Read More..
Instead of spending money on expensive private voice lessons, now you can buy a complete singing course on the Internet and download it onto your computer. There's a variety of courses available, and most of them are by experienced and popular voice teachers that include a lot of testimonials on their sales pages. What course should you choose then?
First of all, you should decide what your goals are as a singer. Are you a beginning singer with no real knowledge of vocal techniques, breath and tone control, correct intonation, or voice projection? Or are you an experienced singer with some knowledge but want to fine tune your skills up a notch or two? In either case, you don't want to invest a lot of money in voice lessons as they are a costly investment.
Some courses offer bonuses to add an incentive to buy the course. But the best thing you can do is review the sales page carefully yourself and read the testimonials. Most singing lesson software and courses guarantee that with the proper technique, you can learn to extend your vocal range by at least one octave.
Your course may include recording software which will help you listen to yourself. But make sure that you get instructions on how to read music, learn the correct breath technique, vocal range increase, development of vocal resonance and strength. The combination of all these factors will improve your ability to sing. There is one software out there with out a singing course, that will show how your voice looks on a computer screen with visuals that show your pitch, intensity of sound, and intonation.
Does the online singing course have a no risk guarantee so you can get a refund if you change your mind? If so, then you will have time to try the course and see if you can get some results. Both children and adults alike of all levels of singing skills have a lot of fun learning and listening to improvements.
Look for a singing course that starts from the beginning and goes to the advanced level. You will find the most of the software is easy to use, but look for a support or email contact in case you have questions about the course. Finally, make the time to set small goals so you have time for your online voice practice, because no singing course can help you if you don't make the time to use it.
By : Riley Wenne
Read More..
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Ten Easy Rock Songs For Guitar Beginners
When I started playing guitar, nobody taught me how to do it. It wasn’t easy at first. My fretting hand's fingertips were so painful that I couldn’t touch anything for days! But once I got the hang of it, I discovered it was one of the most enjoyable things I’ve ever done. Over the years I would look back at those times and smile thinking how my life was changed the moment I picked up the guitar. It was actually my big sister’s guitar. However it turned out that I was more inclined to it that she was. She eventually turned over all the guitar playing duties to me.
I thought of making a random list of easy guitar songs that beginners might want to try playing, just to get things started. It will cover different genres but the objective is to improve playing, one song at a time. These are the criteria I’ve used for the selection of the songs:
a) Minimal number of chords –the less chords in a song, the easier it is to remember how to play it.
b) Minimal barre chords – barre chords require us to use our fretting hand’s index finger to press all 6 strings in a particular fret. Less barre chords is better for beginners.
c) Familiarity of the song – the songs are some of the most popular during their times.
And since we’re talking about beginner songs here, the primary goal of this list is to give novice players some songs to STRUM the guitar along with. No point in doing any complicated stuff yet. We have to first establish the rhythm within the player. So here it goes, in no particular order:
There you go! Most of the songs have similar chords. That way, if we can recall chords from another some and incorporate that chord into another song then you get to practice applied knowledge. Ain't that grand!
Happy practicing!
by: Eric Monsanto
Read More..
I thought of making a random list of easy guitar songs that beginners might want to try playing, just to get things started. It will cover different genres but the objective is to improve playing, one song at a time. These are the criteria I’ve used for the selection of the songs:
a) Minimal number of chords –the less chords in a song, the easier it is to remember how to play it.
b) Minimal barre chords – barre chords require us to use our fretting hand’s index finger to press all 6 strings in a particular fret. Less barre chords is better for beginners.
c) Familiarity of the song – the songs are some of the most popular during their times.
And since we’re talking about beginner songs here, the primary goal of this list is to give novice players some songs to STRUM the guitar along with. No point in doing any complicated stuff yet. We have to first establish the rhythm within the player. So here it goes, in no particular order:
1. “Horse With No Name” – America
Chords: Em, F#m7sus
2. “Leaving On
A Jet Plane” – John Denver
Chords: G, C, D
3. ”No Rain” – Blind
Melon
Chords: E, D, A, G
4. “Every Rose Has It’s Thorns” – Poison
Chords: G, C, D, Em
5. “Knockin’ On Heaven’s Door” – Bob Dylan/ Guns
N’ Roses
Chords: G, C, D, Am
6. “One” – U2
Chords: Am, D7, FM7,
G
7. “Four Strong Winds” – Neil Young
Chords: C, Dm, G, F
8. “I Remember You” – Skid Row
Chords: G, C, D, Am, Em
9. “Come As You
Are” - Nirvana
Chords: Em, D, G, Am, C
10. “Wonderful Tonight” –
Eric Clapton
Chords: G, D, C, Em, Am
Finger placement:
C
(x-3-2-0-1-0)
D (x-x-0-2-3-2)
D7 (x-x-0-2-1-2)
E (0-2-2-1-0-0)
Em (0-2-2-0-0-0)
A (x-0-2-2-2-0)
Am (x-0-2-2-1-0)
F
(x-x-3-2-1-1)
FM7 (x-x-3-2-1-0)
F#m7sus (2-0-0-2-0-0)
G
(3-2-0-0-0-3)
Legend:
D (x-x-0-2-3-2)
D - the chord name
x - E string will not be struck
x - A string will not be struck
0 -
D string open
2 - Press G string on 2nd fret
3 - Press B string on 3rd
fret
2 - Press e string on 2nd fret
There you go! Most of the songs have similar chords. That way, if we can recall chords from another some and incorporate that chord into another song then you get to practice applied knowledge. Ain't that grand!
Happy practicing!
by: Eric Monsanto
Read More..
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Recording The Guitar to a Computer
You want to record your guitar, make your own riffs, music, etc. You want to plug my guitar into my computer? How to connect the guitar to the computer the right and best way? What software? Which audio interface? What about my favorites guitar effects? What computer? Where to start? It can be overwhelming.
The recording guitarist's computer setup should be something like this:
* Guitar (*GTR with 13 pin connection recommended) * Microphone for recording Acoustic guitar, vocals etc. * Quality guitar cable * Audio Interface-Firewire (recommended) or USB * Guitar/midi interface * USB/Firewire cables * Computer (Mac recommended or PC) * Extra external/internal Hard Drive (recommended) * Audio recording/sequencer software * Plug-ins: effects- reverb, compressor, delay, chorus, etc o Dedicated guitar effects/amp simulation o Sampler/synths (for 13 pin guitarists or guitarist who can play keyboards) * Quality cables to speakers * Powered Speakers * Headphones (so you do not disturb the wife an kids at those late weekend sessions).
Some recording setups:
-Setting up your whole live rig and putting a microphone in front of the your cabinet, playing at loud volumes so you get the amp to sound right, push the speaker enough, putting your speaker in a closet, using a blanket to damping volume, etc. -You could use a load on you speaker and record direct.
-Use a preamp that is compensated for direct recording as the front end. You can plug this into outboard effects or add plug-ins.
-You could record from your pedal board or any outboard multi-effects you might own. You probably end up with a direct type sound. Some multi-effects have amp simulation that might take the edge off the direct sound.
With any of these scenarios you are committing yourself to the recorded track. If you record with effects, you can't change it later. You would have to re-record! And if you do not re-record on the same day or you have to come back and have to set up the rig again, hopefully the knobs setting were written down, place the speaker in the same place etc, etc.... If you get into the recording other instruments or mixing the song and you want to change the guitar sound, tone, effects, etc, -- you have to re-record!
With a guitar with a 13 pin connection, either internally or a pickup installed on the body, you get 100% use of your software. You can record your guitar sound and get access to any software synths or samplers that come with the software or as a plug-in add-on.
With a software computer base system, you can change almost everything after you have recorded--amps, effects, mics, mic placement and more. You do this with plug-ins. You can save all your presets, sounds, etc. You could have multi-guitar tracks with different settings all from recording one track. The flexibility is there! Yes, there are purists out there- "software can't sound like tubes". Well, the software is getting pretty close!!!!
There is a lot of software out there. You do not have to spend a lot of money AND it is always improving. You buy a box. (i.e.hard disk recorders, and others mentioned above), you have bought a box. You usually can't upgrade without buying a new box.
People use computers every day at work or home- Microsoft Office (Word, Excel Power Point, etc) Email, Internet. Use it to record your guitar and music!!
by: Brian Murphy
Read More..
The recording guitarist's computer setup should be something like this:
* Guitar (*GTR with 13 pin connection recommended) * Microphone for recording Acoustic guitar, vocals etc. * Quality guitar cable * Audio Interface-Firewire (recommended) or USB * Guitar/midi interface * USB/Firewire cables * Computer (Mac recommended or PC) * Extra external/internal Hard Drive (recommended) * Audio recording/sequencer software * Plug-ins: effects- reverb, compressor, delay, chorus, etc o Dedicated guitar effects/amp simulation o Sampler/synths (for 13 pin guitarists or guitarist who can play keyboards) * Quality cables to speakers * Powered Speakers * Headphones (so you do not disturb the wife an kids at those late weekend sessions).
Some recording setups:
-Setting up your whole live rig and putting a microphone in front of the your cabinet, playing at loud volumes so you get the amp to sound right, push the speaker enough, putting your speaker in a closet, using a blanket to damping volume, etc. -You could use a load on you speaker and record direct.
-Use a preamp that is compensated for direct recording as the front end. You can plug this into outboard effects or add plug-ins.
-You could record from your pedal board or any outboard multi-effects you might own. You probably end up with a direct type sound. Some multi-effects have amp simulation that might take the edge off the direct sound.
With any of these scenarios you are committing yourself to the recorded track. If you record with effects, you can't change it later. You would have to re-record! And if you do not re-record on the same day or you have to come back and have to set up the rig again, hopefully the knobs setting were written down, place the speaker in the same place etc, etc.... If you get into the recording other instruments or mixing the song and you want to change the guitar sound, tone, effects, etc, -- you have to re-record!
With a guitar with a 13 pin connection, either internally or a pickup installed on the body, you get 100% use of your software. You can record your guitar sound and get access to any software synths or samplers that come with the software or as a plug-in add-on.
With a software computer base system, you can change almost everything after you have recorded--amps, effects, mics, mic placement and more. You do this with plug-ins. You can save all your presets, sounds, etc. You could have multi-guitar tracks with different settings all from recording one track. The flexibility is there! Yes, there are purists out there- "software can't sound like tubes". Well, the software is getting pretty close!!!!
There is a lot of software out there. You do not have to spend a lot of money AND it is always improving. You buy a box. (i.e.hard disk recorders, and others mentioned above), you have bought a box. You usually can't upgrade without buying a new box.
People use computers every day at work or home- Microsoft Office (Word, Excel Power Point, etc) Email, Internet. Use it to record your guitar and music!!
by: Brian Murphy
Read More..
Monday, July 28, 2008
Guitar Tuning with Natural Harmonics
Downbeating describes the technique whereby natural harmonics are used in tuning guitars. This is a very effective way to tune guitars that can be more accurate than just tuning by ear. It is also a great way of fine tuning once your have approximated tuning with standard techniques.
A prerequisite technique you must learn before you can use downbeating is hitting natural harmonics. Natural harmonics are produced by picking the string while lightly touching the string over the fret wire. You don’t need to push the string down against the fret wire. Natural harmonics sound like a ringing chimed tone. The easiest place to practice natural harmonics is the 12th fret, but you can produce a natural harmonic at nearly every fret. It is easier to hear them when your guitar is plugged into an amp and even easier when using the overdrive channel.
Once you have mastered hitting natural harmonics downbeating is quite simple. You can use this technique to tune every string except the B string (the 2nd string). The reason for this is because the interval between the G and B string is 4 half steps rather 5 half steps like all of the other strings.
Here’s how to do it. Start at the E and A string and work your way up. Simply hit the natural harmonic on the 5th fret on the lower string followed by the natural harmonic on the 7th fret of the higher string next to it.
They should produce the exact same tone. For example, if you are tuning the E and A strings, hit the natural harmonic on the 5th fret of the E string followed by the natural harmonic on the 7th fret of the A string. You need to have both natural harmonic tones sounding together at the same time.
If the strings are not in perfect tune together, what you will hear is the tone oscillate back and forth between the two strings. The faster the oscillation the further off tune the strings are. As you adjust the tuning peg you should hear the oscillation slow down until you only hear one non-oscillating tone.
This is called downbeating.
You may have to resound the harmonics a few times while you are adjusting the tuners. Once you hear only one non-oscillating tone the strings are in perfect tune with one another. Repeat the steps for all of the strings (except the B string) and you’ll find your guitar in perfect tune. This technique will work with any guitar acoustic or electric but is much easier to hear with an electric through the overdriven channel.
Read More..
A prerequisite technique you must learn before you can use downbeating is hitting natural harmonics. Natural harmonics are produced by picking the string while lightly touching the string over the fret wire. You don’t need to push the string down against the fret wire. Natural harmonics sound like a ringing chimed tone. The easiest place to practice natural harmonics is the 12th fret, but you can produce a natural harmonic at nearly every fret. It is easier to hear them when your guitar is plugged into an amp and even easier when using the overdrive channel.
Once you have mastered hitting natural harmonics downbeating is quite simple. You can use this technique to tune every string except the B string (the 2nd string). The reason for this is because the interval between the G and B string is 4 half steps rather 5 half steps like all of the other strings.
Here’s how to do it. Start at the E and A string and work your way up. Simply hit the natural harmonic on the 5th fret on the lower string followed by the natural harmonic on the 7th fret of the higher string next to it.
They should produce the exact same tone. For example, if you are tuning the E and A strings, hit the natural harmonic on the 5th fret of the E string followed by the natural harmonic on the 7th fret of the A string. You need to have both natural harmonic tones sounding together at the same time.
If the strings are not in perfect tune together, what you will hear is the tone oscillate back and forth between the two strings. The faster the oscillation the further off tune the strings are. As you adjust the tuning peg you should hear the oscillation slow down until you only hear one non-oscillating tone.
This is called downbeating.
You may have to resound the harmonics a few times while you are adjusting the tuners. Once you hear only one non-oscillating tone the strings are in perfect tune with one another. Repeat the steps for all of the strings (except the B string) and you’ll find your guitar in perfect tune. This technique will work with any guitar acoustic or electric but is much easier to hear with an electric through the overdriven channel.
Read More..
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